Tuesday, August 27, 2019

31 - Europe, here we are!


Well, we did it!  We made it to Portugal (mainland that is - as the Azores are Portuguese owned).  Our 700-mile sail from Sao Miguel which we thought would take us 7 days was covered in only 5 1/2.   This last leg of our over 3000-mile Atlantic crossing journey was our smoothest yet.  We had great weather and wind the entire trip and made it in without any hitches.   























Our first stop in Portugal was the adorable town of Cascais.  This town was once the summer vacation spot for the Portuguese royalty so we thought it apropos for us to visit.  Everything about the town was wonderful!  We spent a week there exploring the town and renting bikes so we could ride the designated path along the coastline.  It was great to have a path to ride on and the scenery was perfect.  We took so many pictures that we thought adding links to show more would work.  Click the links if you want to see the rest of the pictures.







Next, we bought train tickets to nearby Lisbon, the capital of Portugal.  It was so much fun to be in a big city that was so alive.  While there were people everywhere, it never felt overcrowded.  We walked - I’m sure- several miles trying to get as much in as possible.  The city has some interesting streets and wonderful green spaces so we explored most of them.  It’s also full of monuments and gorgeous old buildings.  We found some great food and drink and MaryAnn even got to try out riding on an electric scooter (Pedro was a sissy and got an electric bike).  Lisbon is a great town that we only scratched the surface of so I think we’ll have to go back.  Again, here is the link for more pictures.















 The next day we took a train back to Lisbon and then caught another onto Sintra.  Sintra was the official home of the Portuguese royalty.  While there is no longer Portuguese royalty, the town seems to still have that feel.  The descriptions we’d read about Sintra described it as fairytale like and we agree.  We again walked several miles -it was almost 5K each way just up to the Moorish castle – so we rewarded ourselves with a great meal at the only Indian restaurant in town. As with most places, it’s practically impossible to accurately capture with pictures but we did get some fun pictures.  Again, a link for more pictures.














We then decided that it was time to continue south.  We left Cascais and had a perfect day sail down to the town of Sines –birthplace of Vasco de Gama.  Sines used to be the largest fishing village in Portugal and continues to have a great fishing community but also a large industrial shipping area just outside of town.  We liked both because it was fun to watch the boats and the huge ships come and go.  The town itself is small but sweet and had really good restaurants, a fabulous brewery and several grocery stores within an easy(ish) walk.  Since we were able to get a slip in the marina at a really reasonable rate, we decided to stay a little longer, rent a car and see more of Portugal.  While we were in Sao Miguel, we met a young man named Nelson at the pineapple plantation who took the time to make us a list of some of his favorite Portuguese cities.  So, we took out the list and started planning














First, we drove down to the little town of Porto Covo.  This is the beach town closest to Sines and while Sines has a small beach, Porto Covo has what seems to be miles of beaches all full of people.  The little town itself was also very quaint and we enjoyed a picnic in the town’s center.

























From Porto Covo, we chose the closest town on Nelson’s list which was Beja – the Portuguese word for kiss.  Beja was another adorable town with beautiful old buildings and a wonderful castle that we were allowed to tour.  The drive was interesting with the cork and olive farms all along the way.  More  pictures in this link.



Beja    







 Next, we decided to head to take a big trip north.  Starred on Nelson’s list for northern Portugal was Porto so we decided to start there.  While I am sure I’ve said this about every other city we’ve seen and will most likely say it again, Porto has to be my favorite city.  It has everything!  The town is situated on the Douro River just in from the Ocean and they use the waterfront to its fullest.  The town has 6 bridges – at least 2 with great pedestrian walkways so you can imagine how much the river is part of the town.  It’s also, as the name would imply, the town where port (wine that is) got its start.  As such, there are tons of port wine cellars where the port is aged.  It’s fascinating!   We found amazing restaurants -The Wine Box was our absolute favorite – and relished in the beauty and history of this wonderful town.  A definite must see for anyone visiting Portugal.  We’ll go back, I’m sure.







                            Porto   https://photos.app.goo.gl/RJjjCJtfeTNPrNH48









 We left Porto and decided to head towards the area wineries.  We just pulled up a listing for a few that were relatively close by and drove.  Well, while the one we chose said it was open, the fine print that we forgot to read said to call ahead to schedule.  We pulled up and the gate was closed.  We called then and the wonderful owners who were there because it was their home, welcomed us in and gave us the most wonderful wine and tapas tasting we’ve ever had a winery - still not sure how she pulled off the tapas with no notice but they were amazing).  The winery is called Sapateiro – which means shoemaker.  The winemaker’s father who owns shoe stores and made wine on the side got him started in the business.  The wines he makes are Vinho Verde.  We got a tour of the vineyards and the surrounding gardens (only 3.5 hectares) and then were shown to the terrace which overlooks the vineyard and treated to the tapas and tasting of all three of his wines.  Honestly, they were all amazing and we bought a case (would have bought more but we already had a boat full of wine and we know we’re going back).  He even gave us a bottle of his father wine which they make for local consumption only.  Anyone anywhere near this area, must go experience this.  Everything is first class but in a wonderfully homey atmosphere.  They even have the sweetest dog that MaryAnn wanted to take home.   More pictures here:



          Sapateiro Winery           https://photos.app.goo.gl/SNcebdm7P3toP6t86











We left the winery and headed to Coimbra - the next city on the list.  Coimbra is the home to Nelson’s Alma matter University de Coimbra the oldest university in Portugal and one of the oldest in the world dating back to 1290.  Another absolutely adorable city full of gorgeous building, rivers, and great food.  We even found a chocolate factory next door to a place selling Port by the glass!  Again, here’s the link with more pictures.
















Next and not far from Coimbra lies the town of Coinbriga. This is home to one the most intact Roman ruins in Portugal. The mosaic tile floors, the aqueduct system and pillars were all fascinating. It’s known that there is much more of this old city yet to be unearthed but they are waiting to make sure that they can preserve it correctly before they excavate. Again, a link with more pictures.













 Next, we went to Santo Andre.  This town is close to Sines and houses a wonderful nature reserve area with beautiful beaches.  We spent a few hours hiking around and walking the beaches. We also stopped at nearby Santiago do Cacem where they still have a working windmill – unfortunately we were there on a Sunday so it wasn’t operational.  Another quaint little town.



We decided to hit another winery on our way to the next town on the list.  Herdade da Comporta Winery is located in the town of Comporta – meaning floodgate.  Comporta was founded when floodgates were built to allow them to control the flow of water from the nearby river in order to grow rice.  The corporation that owns the winery also still grows a significant amount of rice along with other crops incorporating over 125,000 hectares of land.


We then drove to the nearby city of Carrasqueira.  This is a picturesque little fishing village full of traditional little boats.  Unfortunately, we got there at low tide but it was still cute to see. 














We caught the ferry over to the city Setubal.  Setubal is again – I know I sound like a broken record but the cities are all so – adorable.  We walked around town, found a great pizza parlor.  After seeing this adorable statue we decided next time to find some fried cuttlefish which we discovered is the local dish.  We also toured the local castle with a great view of the ocean.  More pictures:












Next, we went onto Evora.  Evora is also a very old city with beautiful architecture.  They are perhaps best known for the Chapel of Bones.  This is an amazing chapel whose walls are covered in cadaverous bones.  Its eerily beautiful.  They also have an amazing cathedral, roman ruins and an aqueduct.  Fascinating city.  Here is another link to more pictures.









Evora         
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SERMCq4n44ZpsbGF9

Finally, back on the boat, we decided that we needed to continue on southward so we left our little town of Sines.  As I type this, we are anchored out just off the beach in the town of Sagres.  We plan to just hang out for a couple of days – yes, relaxing and getting caught up on a few work things – then continue onto Lagos.  In Lagos, we plan to get the boat hauled for some much-needed work and then leave her on the hard for a few months while we head back to the US for a while and then back to tour inland Europe.

Until next post!